Photographing Pangong at first light

Pangong is one of those places that looks unreal in photographs, and slightly disappointing at noon. The harsh midday sun flattens the colours and the shoreline fills with cars. The magic happens in the hour around sunrise and the hour before sunset, which is the best reason to stay the night.

Where to stand

The busiest stretch near Lukung is fine for a first look, but for photography I prefer the quieter southern shore towards Man and Merak. You get long views down the lake with fewer people and vehicles in the frame. Scout your spot the evening before, so you are not stumbling around in the dark.

The light, hour by hour

• Before sunrise: a soft blue cast over the water, and pink on the peaks. Use a tripod and longer exposures for smooth water.
• Sunrise: the mountains on the far shore light up first. Expose for the highlights and let the foreground stay dark.
• One to two hours later: the famous turquoise appears as the sun rises higher. A polarising filter deepens the blues; don't overdo it.
• Late afternoon: warm side light and stronger wind. Ripples break up reflections, but clouds over the lake can be dramatic.

Settings that work

• Landscapes: f/8–f/11, ISO 100, tripod for low light.
• Wide shoreline shots: focus about a third of the way into the scene to keep the foreground and peaks sharp.
• Night: on moonless nights the Milky Way rises over the lake. Try roughly 15–20 seconds at f/2.8 and ISO 3200 with a wide lens, then adjust.

Dealing with the cold

At around 4,225 m, mornings are close to freezing even in summer. Batteries drain fast: keep spares in an inside pocket and swap them often. Thin liner gloves let you work the controls. When you go back into a warm tent, leave the camera in its bag for a while so condensation doesn't form on the lens.

Respect the place

Pangong is fragile. Don't drive on the shore, stay off the marshy edges where birds nest, and take every scrap of litter with you. Ask before photographing people in the villages. The best image here is one that leaves no trace.